Hoi An, a beautiful theme park a must see

Next stop was Hoi An, but from Dalat to Hoi An there are 620 km … So we made 240 km to Dai Lanh, and the next day almost 400 km to Hoi An. These distances are considerable taking into account that the average speed of the Dynamite Vietnamese are 50 km / h, and the maximum about 65 km / h …

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The good news is that the roads are flat and very good. We must mention that we stopped at Dai Lanh because we thought it was a beautiful place. It is a small fishing village that fell in love at a distance. We found a guest house for 150,000 Dongs ($ 7) our room was overlooking the beach, we saw all the sea with fishing boats, turquoise green wood, floating there, waiting for the next day to fish.

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We settled and went down to the beach for a walk before it got dark … To our surprise, the fishermen’s houses looked directly onto the beach, but this one was full of crap !!!

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You can not imagine, there was even a dead dog on the sand, in a state of putrefaction, and rats! I had not seen rats on a beach until now … that unfortunately, they wanted to take a bag and start collecting shit … yes, with gloves and armor … Anyway … The rest of the town was no different, planted with plastic wrap and bottles …

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We continued the trip the next day, we had 400 km of road to Hoi An … The trip went smoothly, concentrated, and aware that it was going to be hard … And it was, but we got it !!

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To avoid further inconvenience, we had booked the cheapest room we could find, so when we arrived we went straight to Song Thanh Homestay, for about 200,000 Dongs ($ 9) the clean and very correct double room. The only drawback is that it was 3 km from the center and not 1.5 km as indicated by the description in Booking …

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After a well-deserved rest, the next day, we look for another room closer to the center. We found in Hai Dang Homestay through Booking.com, for a reasonable price comparing with the rest of prices, 227,000 Dongs ($ 10). However the place was not as it appeared in the photos, room with a view of the river and private bathroom …

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It was a private house with rooms rented on the top floor. The family and children were on the ground floor, the smell of the place was “peculiar” and the hygiene was not always the desired one. At least the room was clean and air conditioned. Ah! and it was 10 min walking from the center !! great!!

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The center of Hoi An consists of a large market, with its typical products: meats, fish, vegetables, and in addition to the souvenir stalls. On the other side of the market, the good starts: gastronomy!

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Hoi An is the gastronomic capital of Vietnam, and in honor of this denomination, you can find very good culinary offer. We tried two different tasting menus in a restaurant called Faifoo.

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Each menu consisted of about 5 dishes, so we could try: Cau Lau (pork noodles and vegetables), Spring Rolls vegetables (spring rolls), White rose (steamed ravioli with prawns), Won Ton (fried rice pasta with Pork and tomato sauce), Banh Xeo (corn pancakes with vegetables), grilled fish … it was ok, but it was not great either … and it cost us 120,000 Dongs each ($ 5.5).

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We recommend the culinary offer of Central Market Food. It is a building next to the Central Market full of tiny food paradites. It’s a counter surrounded by benches and the lady cooks you on the other side of the counter, in a tiny space … you could say they do not hide anything …

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It eats spectacularly well, tasting the same dishes as in the tasting menu, the taste and quality was far superior, and the price is ridiculous !!!! The dishes range between 20,000 and 40,000 Dongs ($ 0.9 to $ 1.8) … in addition to having important rations …

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Our favorite place, after having tried others, was number 34, a smiling lady who puts a lot of love to what she does … a taste in a unique environment … highly recommended.

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After the market the narrow streets of the old quarter of Hoi An begin. Hoi An was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1999. Hoi An was the largest port in south-east Asia in the 1st century, and part of the route of silk during the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries. It was commercial stop above all Chinese, Japanese and French.

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In Hoi An lived Alejandro de Rodas, the French Jesuit who invented the Vietnamese alphabet that is now used. During the Second World War it was agreed not to bombard this town for its historical wealth.

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The streets of Hoi An have exceptional beauty. His house in Chinese and Japanese style, preserved in detail as in past centuries, mixed with the lighting of cloth and paper lanterns turn their streets into a romantic vision of the past. Places like the Japanese bridge, from the 16th century, which connects with a Buddhist temple, or the numerous Chinese temples in the historic center transport you to another time. The streets are full of craft shops, tailors and coffee shops.

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Here you can find a very special coffee, civet coffee. It is a small mammal, the civet, that eats the coffee beans, and exits them again, the feces are recovered and the grains attacked by the intestinal juices have a particular aroma and taste.

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We did not try it, we read an article that talked about the exploitation of these animals, in conditions of abuse, for the production of said coffee … Without going into demagogy, it does not solve anything to take one of these and perhaps we contribute to avoid animal mistreatment .

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Hoi An is a magical place, but first you must remove all the tourists to see something … Everyone who goes to Vietnam goes through Hoi An, even people who do not go to Vietnam, also go through Hoi An …

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We have not seen a place with more tourists anywhere else … Sometimes it was a burden, a kind of theme park. It’s as if in Port Aventura they mounted Asian themes … So keep that in mind …

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Ah! and we also went to the beach of Hoi An !!! we have seen pictures of the paradisiacal beaches of Hoi An in web pages … but we did not find them … We saw the beach quite normal … although the weather did not accompany us either, it did not prevent us from taking a long walk in the sand, very pleasant, but it is not paradise …

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And after staying 4 nights in Hoi An, we continue our trip !!!! Next stop … Phong Nga !!!! Adelante Vietnamese Dynamite !!!!!

Phong Nha, beautiful caves and exuberant nature

From Hoi An to our next destination we traveled about 340 km … to Phong Nha, in the Ke Bang nature park, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is a mountainous region that is characterized by its spectacular caves, it is believed that more than 300, of which only about 20 have been explored.

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When arriving as always we look for guest house. This time it was not complicated, since the town is a street … Asking we got a double room for 220,000 Dongs (a little less than $ 10) in the Elegant Hostel, with a good breakfast and air conditioning, all very correct.

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The town is full of hostels for backpackers, at night there is live music and a lot of progress in the Easy tiger, although everything a little more expensive. To eat the choice was more difficult. The restaurants are for tourists, so the prices are quite “high” … Everything is still relatively cheap, but when you see the prices with local eyes $ 1 up you find it expensive !! Mentality of the traveler, not the tourist … there is a subtle difference between the two terms.

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There are also cheap local options and we tried them, but they left a lot to be desired … very low quality and hygiene … We saw it clearly and ended up having dinner almost every night at the Gecko Hostel: for 59.000 Dongs ($ 2.6) we each had a sandwich with 5 ingredients to choose (cheese, chicken, lettuce, tomato, eggplant, pork …), chips and a beer … great! Another day we had dinner at Paradise Pizza, which has a very good rating on Trip Advisor … well, what do you want me to tell you … it was not the bomb … anyway …

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The main attractions of the area are its caves. In any hostel you can make a pack of visits to several caves at a fairly high price (eg: Paradise cave + Dark cave for 1,300,000 Dongs ($ 57)), but you can also do everything on your own, renting a motorcycle and paying the tickets on the site, so you save a dough. We as always are saving what we can (in case it has not been clear with the grill that I just put with the restaurants) we decided to visit only the Paradise Cave, or Thieng Duong.

You can get there by motorcycle and there you pay 250,000 Dongs ($ 11) each for the entrance. We had been told that there are usually a lot of people, especially locals, except about 12-14 hours when they go to eat.

We who are always late to the sites, we stand at the box office at 2:30 pm, the cave closes at 4:00 pm … great, we have just enough time … From the ticket booth to the entrance of the cave you have a kick of almost 1 hour…!!! in slope … I set the pace to arrive with some time to see the cave and Mayra sweating and her face all red cursing me …

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We finally arrived, and yes, there were many people … But as we were entering everyone left, and there came a time that we were the just …

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The cave is magnificent, wonderful, a spectacle of nature, full of columns created by sedimentation, drop by drop, drawing concentric or fluted forms, overflowing volumes, it is a symphony of forms, built over centuries, grain by grain … The ideal is to be able to enjoy for hours, absorbed, oblivious to everything, while time is running, at a geological rhythm … Highly recommended.

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In addition, the round trip motorcycle trail of the caves is also beautiful, between mountains, jungle, crossing villages, huge rivers, with fishing boats … a beautiful environment.

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There are other caves to visit that we did not do: Phong Nha, which apparently is worth 100,000 Dongs and you can bathe, or Dark Cave you enter with a zip line, you kayak and you can take a mud bath … a bit touristy, but it paints very fun … And finally, the mother of the caves: Hang Son Doong, the largest cave in the world, discovered by a local farmer in 1991 and explored in 2009.

This cave has more than a year of waiting list and the entrance costs $ 3000. Although recently we met Nicolai in Hanoi, a Russian traveler of the most unique, who told us that if you pay something to the right place, he takes you to visit it. This cave is so big that it has its own jungle and its own microclimate … it must be really a show !!!! but … we’ll see her next time …

Our next stop was: Tam Coc, another natural paradise of beautiful scenery … So we loaded the Vietnamese Dynamite with our gear and we went to the place of the emerging mountains … Here we go Tam Coc !!!!

Tam Coc, the Halong Bay on land

After about 380 km in our brown beast, our tireless nerve, yes, at 50 km / h … we arrived at Tam Coc !!!!

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As the road was long, and we knew we would arrive late, we booked through Booking, a room at Hung Anh Homestay for 250,000 Dongs ($ 11) with breakfast. Upon arrival we were welcomed by a larger couple, in their 60s, very kind, attentive and smiling.

The woman asked us if we wanted to have dinner with her family that same night, our soul was touched, with the accumulated fatigue, that they invited us to share dinner with their family was a very nice gesture … until, in fractions of a second, we remember We were in Vietnam, in a tourist area, and we asked: how much will it cost? and she answered: 100,000 Dongs ($ 4.4) each, with a wide and friendly smile … hahahaha … We told him it was very expensive, we could pay 50,000 Dongs each, and he accepted …

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Welcome to Tam Coc, the city where all the merchants smile at you as if it were Mother Teresa of Calcutta, or as if they had raised you like their own son … until they see that you are not going to buy anything … and the devil returns person to despise you … it is a half-hearted exaggeration … and the truth is that we did not like our stay in this city just because of this attitude so unhealthy and not very human.

The dinner with the family was quite good, simple but good, rice, chicken, rolls and vegetables and in a lot of quantity, so it was a good option for the price we paid.

The room was correct, the problem is that the woman was behind us all the time. That same night we went for a walk after dinner and when we returned we met a very nice Belgian couple who were in our same homestay. We had a beer together until the lady came to look for us to return to the homestay !!!!! It was late !!!! 11pm !!!! He sat at our table with a long face telling us that we had to come back … Excuse me !!!?

The next morning the same story, you were in the bathroom “shitting” and it poked at the door to give you more toilet paper … but there was already !!!! It was torture!

We went for a walk and started to ask for prices, we found for 180,000 Dongs ($ 8) in Lang Khanh Guest house and suddenly we said … Let’s get out of this homestay !!! how heavy they are !!! and at 13: 30h we went there saying that we were going to Hanoi, because if we told the truth we could charge extra … In the new site all right, more or less clean, A / C, breakfast … nothing heavy and cheaper! !! Great!!!!

The greatest attraction of Tam Coc are its landscapes. It is a plain with karstic rock formations, protuberances that suddenly stand out, they call it the Halog Bay of earth, or the land of Son Goku of Bola de Drac … (this is more petit committee). We visited the Bich Dong Pagoda.

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We went walking, between rice fields and farmers up and down. It is a beautiful pagoda, you climb stairs and cross a cave, Mua Cave, revealing incredible views. Leaving the pagoda on the left there is a path that takes you to a very unique valley, the place is beautiful.

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One of the biggest attractions is the rowing boat ride, carried by the locals, with the particularity that they paddle with their feet. The boat is usually contracted on the lake that is in the center of Tam Coc.

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The ride is a bit expensive about 270,000 Dongs ($ 12) per person, so in our eagerness to save we had ruled out doing it … Until going to the pagoda, we saw another pier. There a lady stopped us, she told us that if we waited until 5pm the ticket office would close and we would get a discount.

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We were caught a little by surprise, but we made an offer, 150,000 Dongs ($ 6.6) both, the woman accepted … Ok, we did not believe much … How we still had time we went to visit the pagoda and came back, the lady did not He separated from us in no time …

It was already 5:00 pm and she told us to hide in the entrance of a house, that she would let us know … all very furtive … We did not think it was immoral or that we were taking money to pay less, the other way around, if the women’s t-shirts are revealed this way because the money of the ticket goes to the pockets of the usual ones and not to theirs, and at the original price we had already decided not to, so we thought it was a fair deal for both parties …

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After a while the lady came to look for us, we got into the boat and another woman told us to pay at that time, and we did. The trip began, in a small metal boat, piercing very shallow, the walk was between paddies, mangroves, aquatic jungle, full of lotus flowers, growing on the water, beautiful! As it was late there was no one, we were alone, between the kartic protuberances, in a natural silence, among birds, some fisherman, and our silence … beautiful moment …

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At one point we came to a hole in the rock, the woman boarded towards her, we were getting into a cave, she told us to lower our heads, to lie down, as we got deeper and deeper into the cave, ends were just 5 cm from my face, while the roof and its protuberances were lower and lower, almost at the height of our chest … suddenly the lady told us something we did not quite understand:

phoun, phoun … Aaaah !!!! to light with the phone! phone !!!

We take the fronts and light. She kept advancing, until there was no space for the boat, and with nervous movements that made us doubt for a few moments, the recoil began … the rains had raised the level and we could not cross the cave … Awkwardly, because of the limited space available , he got the boat out of the hole … and we could breathe … uff … the adrenaline was at high levels … but we had enjoyed it as an adventure.

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The boat trip continued with the same relaxation that had begun … a moment of conscious meditation … as a gift to our life … in a beautiful setting … Once at the jetty we said goodbye to the lovely lady, and back to Tam Coc.

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That night we discovered the Minh Toan Restaurant Father Cooking, a restaurant that looks expensive but is good, nice and cheap !!!! better than the rest of the offer of the place. And then we met some Catalans, Raquel and Cesar, and we sat in some chairs in front of the supermarket with sign: Hanoi Foot Massage, to have a beer for 15,000 Dongs ($ 0.66) Bia Hanoi bottle … Perfect to finish the day!!!!

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The next day we went for a walk among rice fields, where the farmers worked, among the mountains, crossing villages … with the nonsense we traveled 16 km in total, but it was worth it, the landscape is very beautiful. There are more places to visit in Tam Coc, but we did not have time for more.

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Our next stop was Halog Bay or failing that, the cheap version, the island of Cat Ba. There we go Cat Ba !!!!

Cat Ba, the most affordable Halong Bay

From Tam Coc to Hai Phong we traveled 140 km by motorcycle, from there we took a ferry to Cat Hai (the first island before reaching our destination, Cat Ba) for 38,000 Dongs (motorcycles and 2 people), and from there we took another ferry to Cat Ba for 43,000 Dongs in total. We arrived in mid-afternoon, and from the pier to Cat Ba Town there are about 25 km.

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Once in Cat Ba Town the odyssey began to find accommodation. It was Friday and was plagued by Vietnamese tourists, but packed to the brim. Everywhere we asked we had room for Friday but not for Saturday … The price of Saturday night was through the roof!

Asking door to door a woman stopped us on the street, and told us that she had a room for us, that it was a house … we thought we did not understand, but we kept talking, we bargained the price, getting a price of $ 10 per night … Great! !

Now we had to understand where he was, because at his hotel he said he was full the next day … He took his motorcycle and we followed it, he took us through alleys to a house, opened the electric shutter as if it were a store and told us that it was that. It was a house !! with kitchen, dining room, and the room.

The room had a height of 1.5 meters, and there was only one mattress on the floor, although with air conditioning … Everything was new, very clean and very correct, and after having asked everywhere we accept … Also included breakfast , that we had to go take him to his hotel.

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With it we also hired the one day tour of Lang Ha Bay, belonging to Halong Bay, for $ 13 each, which we would do the next day. So shower, dinner in our neighborhood, completely local and to sleep.

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The next day I played the tour. We had read so many things about scams and bad experiences that we did not have too many expectations … it was like a must see. So we went to breakfast and then a car picked us up to take us to the pier.

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There we climbed into a large boat, one more of the many that were there. We waited for everyone to go and we set sail. The day was splendid! the landscape was impressive, full of protuberances that came out of the sea, like this! suddenly!!

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As we have already said, they are rock karst (post it is worth …) but without having any idea of ​​geology I can say that they are impressive !!!!! After a while of sailing and observing rocks, like the “chop stick”, we stopped in one place, with other boats, there we disembarked and we had to catch a kayak, in pairs.

Once we were in ours we started to explore the area. There were a lot of people, but once you went forward they were distributing in different areas and it was not so annoying. The environment was very beautiful, with birds like cormorants, and we had a pretty freaky fish, type tabby, like a small scorpion, that was following us … in the end it was even a little scary … We took a good turn, beautiful! And we went back to the pier, the last …

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We sailed again, while some sailors set the table. The food was very good and very filling !!! Nothing extravagant, rice, rolls (by the way very good), tofu, fish, chicken and vegetables, all very well cooked, we were satisfied. The next stop was to snorkel.

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The problem was that the sea was full of jellyfish … so a swim and up, yes, pulling the highest point of the boat! Jerónimoooooo !!!!

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Then we stopped at Monkey Island, which was a disappointment because we only saw three monkeys, and I was drinking from a can of fanta … On this island you can do a climb to the highest point and enjoy fantastic views!

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The ascent in the last section is not easy, and less with flip flops, so better to wear suitable shoes to avoid scares … And from the Monkey Island we went through a floating village, very curious, and back to earth.

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The day had been great, above our expectations, which were nil, and totally recommendable … The company that took care of everything was: L Travel, if you do not have it clear, talk to them.

In Cat Ba there is also a natural park where excursions are organized. We prefer to go and look for a nice beach, but there is no beach either … The landscape is the best, but not the beach itself.

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Our experience in Cat Ba was coming to an end when on the way to the ferry dock the rear wheel began to wobble … that was a very bad sign … At once I told Mayra to come down … many spoke radius had been broken, in total 9 radios … and the rest could not stand the weight.

We were in the middle of the natural park of Cat Ba, there was no town nearby, the sun was torrid, without exaggeration, melted the asphalt, and we were crumbling in sweat carrying the bike on foot. Finally we arrived at a mechanic, after walking an hour … I asked him the price, and he asked me 400,000 Dongs ($ 18), I tried to bargain, but he did not give in, I told him as if I did it myself, and he told me 200,000 Dongs ($ 9 ), a very high price to replace 9 radios …

Mayra stayed there and I went to find another mechanic, and at about 200 meters there was another, which made me wait a couple of hours, then I asked for 500,000 Dongs, I looked for another mechanic, and there was no other in the area.

All these trajines happening to see Mayra from time to time … I know! I am very stubborn … hence the Aragonese blood … At the end I asked the first mechanic again and he told me that I would leave it for free if I did it myself … Great!

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I got to work. It was very hot, we had walked a lot, we were very sweaty, but we were going to solve the problem. Finally I fixed the wheel, with some advice from the mechanic, and I to thank him for the gesture I gave him some razor pliers that he thought to give to sell the bike to reduce weight … The man loved them! and so we both stayed with a smile !!!

Again, on the way to the jetty … but it was too late, there were no more ferries until the next day … We returned to Cat Ba Town and along the way we found Cat Ba Sweet Potato Guesthouse, for 250,000 Dongs ($ 11). The next day we started the trip again undoing the fact, and taking direction to Hanoi! The capital of Vietnam !!! Here we go!!!!

Hanoi, Vietnam in its pure state

After Cat Ba we went straight to Hanoi. The first night we slept in Julio’s house, Leandra and Nieves. We contacted them through Couchsurfing, and it was a delight, not because of the comfort of the site, since they did not have a room for us and they put a duvet on the floor, but because of how nice they are !!

They are young people who study Spanish philology at the University of Hanoi. They spoke perfect Castilian and we shared a good time together. They explained to us some curiosities, like the sense of all the offerings they make to the gods. The offerings are made to scare away the evil spirits of the houses. These offerings remain for a time and then are consumed. Donations are always made of the things that the person offers, and they should always be even numbers, never odd. You should never do percussion with the chopsticks in the bowl of food, that drives away the good spirits and attracts the bad ones. Curious knick-knacks of culture (sometimes customs rather than religion) of Vietnamese society.

After the fantastic experience with Julio and company we went to spend the next two nights, at the Hanoi Backpackers Hostel for 190,000 Dongs ($ 8.2) both, in a very comfortable double bed, with breakfast. A correct place, although they do not provide parking.

From there we went to Sapa and Ha Giang, to return to Hanoi, where we would be 14 days more. This time we stayed at the Hanoi Center Hostel, for 190,000 Dongs ($ 8.2) both, also with breakfast, is from the same owners as the previous one. Both in this and in the previous hostel, from 18 to 19 hours there is free beer bar … it is a danger …

In this hotel we met Nicolai, a traveler from St. Petersburg who makes web pages while traveling. A guy as nice as private, we share many moments with him.

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And then we moved to the Lantern Hostel for $ 3 per person with breakfast. A new hostel, just opened on a restaurant, in the heart of Hanoi, cheaper and better located …

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Hanoi we loved, it is a city chaos, a horrible traffic, always shouting, but the old part has a lot of charm. The streets of each trade, the one that sells tools, the one of the stainless steel furniture, the one of the imitations, above all North Face, the street of the haberdasheries …

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There is also the Bia Hoi Corner, a confluence of streets full of Bia Hoi bars, that is, beer in barrels very cheap !!!! The jug costs 5000 Dongs, about $ 0.23 … There is no excuse for not going away to sleep, ha ha ha !!!!

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One night we were with Annia and her partner, a companion of Mayra of the Faculty, for more than 10 years they had not seen each other … a pleasant surprise to have a good time with close people.

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The “Old Quater” is full of beautiful Chinese temples, with an old facade, all of wood, with fallen roofs and inside their buddha figures, they are nice to visit … Strolling sure that at some point you will arrive at Hoan Kiem Lake.

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The surroundings of this lake are closed to traffic on weekends, and is filled with music groups, magicians doing magic, break dancers, and other artists.

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There is also something that we have already seen in other places, small cars to be driven by younger children and parents with a remote control … It is a good place to walk and relax …

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Inside this lake is the Ngoc Son pagoda, which is accessed by a beautiful red wooden bridge, after the payment of 20,000 Dongs of entry.

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The last day we went to see the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, where his grave is located. Due to a misunderstanding we could not enter, they told us that they closed at 11:30 and at 11:05 they had closed the beach bar … bad luck … we saw it from outside … Ho Chi Minh is like a god in Vietnam, an idol, an example for the people, the leader who will always live in their hearts … or at least that is interpreted from the millions of images throughout the country … it’s even in the soup …

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We have a theory: They were two brothers, some with glasses who went to the USA, opened a fried chicken chain, and the other stayed in Vietnam and turned the country into a communist … the resemblance is remarkable … look at the Photo:

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In front of the mausoleum is the Central Government building, quite impressive, it’s a bit scary … From there we also went to the pagoda Chu Chau Long.

Other places we visited was the West Lake, a large lake within the city. The neighborhood that surrounds it is the residential area of ​​immigrants who call themselves Expats (expatriates). As our friend Toni discovered from the Motxilles Abismals blog, it’s funny, for Westerners, foreigners who come to their countries are “immigrants”, but when they are in another country they are “expatriates” … it’s ridiculous …

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In the Old Quarter there is also a very curious street, it is the train track itself flanked by houses. People make their lives on the street, or the road, and at 3:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. they know that they have to dismantle the beach bar because the train is coming …

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As in Ho Chi Minh, Hanoi is full of motorcycles, they are everywhere, like always screaming without stopping, so driving through its streets is crazy, like a video game, very funny.

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Our Vietnamese Dynamite was already used to this hostile environment, so she took the reins of the situation on the road and took us with total guarantee, we rely entirely on her. Too bad the trip to Vietnam was coming to an end … and we had to sell it … It did not take us long to deliver a lucky friend. This post is in memory of the Senior Vietnamese Dynamite, we will always take you in the heart …

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To eat in Hanoi there are many good and cheap places, but you have to find them. The places that we liked were: A small restaurant on Hang Luoc street near Hang Ruoi, especially for dinner, when they know what they have left over meat, you order a roasted chicken with fried rice and the chicken ration is great , for only 45,000 Dongs ($ 2), good and the family that carries it are charming !!!

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On the same street towards the night market there is a very cute mini restaurant that we liked, it’s called Tiem Chu Long Cantonese BBQ house, Hang Luoc Street 79, and the face of the logo is the man who serves you. The plates are worth 45,000 Dongs ($ 2).

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Another place, in the street of our first hostel there is a simple restaurant, My Van Than – Sui Cao Tom Tuoi, corner with Bat Su and Hang Phen, that for 35.000 Dongs ($ 1.5) puts you a soup with noodle, wanton, prawn, that’s great! Although the girl is drier than the mojama …

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Then, Quan Xoi Cat Lam restaurant, at 24B Duong Thanh Street, they make a rice with a very good and curious bean paste, also accompany it with the tapas you choose, sausage, fried egg, chicken, pork, pate. .. it’s very good and it costs you less than 50,000 Dongs.

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And finally, to rest from Asian food, on Thursdays we have 2×1 hamburger at the Craft Beer restaurant. You have to try the Mexican … it’s very very good … So 2 hamburgers and potatoes for 120,000 Dongs ($ 5.5) …

As a peculiarity, in the North of Vietnam, and especially in Hanoi, they make coffee with egg, coffee trung, which consists of Vietnamese coffee with egg on the brink of snow, merengue type. It is very sweet and very good!

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The coffee 39 of Nguyen Huu Huan street were the first to do it, although now it is reformed without any glamor and is very expensive !! A few numbers below, at 35 the site is more seedy, more authentic, and costs you 25,000 Dongs.

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While we were in Hanoi we collaborated with two NGOs. By chance we both work with girls victims of human trafficking. Imagine that one day, a friend invites you to go to a place, there some guys give money to your “friend” and the next thing you know is that you’re in a brothel in China … not strong? Well, that’s real …

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We did a Clown workshop and a performance of our number. To know more, read the post on the Clown Science Dreams blog, which is very interesting and beautiful.

On the last day we took the bus in front of the train station, number 85, for 30,000 Dongs ($ 1.3) each, which took us to the airport. There we took a flight to Yangun, stopping in Bangkok.

And Vietnam is over, a country of contrasts, where we have felt good, but where you have to go with an eye, or they will give you the stick … you understand me.

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Sapa, ethnicities and mountain rice fields

We left Hanoi with our fantastic Vietnamese Dynamite towards Sapa !! in the extreme north of Vietnam, a mountainous region inhabited by numerous ethnic groups. Sapa is a town that had already warned us that it is very touristy, they had even recommended us to avoid it, skip it and go directly to Ha Giang … but it is also a mandatory stop on all tourist routes … for something it will be .. On this trip we were accompanied by Liam and Pepa, with their scooter.

We started the route and after half an hour we passed a crossroads with police officers directing traffic. We passed through the middle of the cars to turn right, and we had no problems, but Pepa and Liam did not have the same luck … they had stopped at the intersection … go!

Luckily we had already explained what they told us … to take the minimum money … they paid 90,000 Dongs, what they said they had, but they asked for 1 million … and if it strains, sneaks !!! The cause of the fine, obviously was not very clear … For our part, we have not stopped even once, we have crossed many times with police, and have always turned to ignore … The luck of the beginner. .. Even if they had stopped us we would have a story to explain … everything has its two faces …

On the way to Sapa is Bac Ha, a town where on Sundays there is a market where all the local people will sell their products, and we took advantage of the fact that it was Sunday to make a stop.

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The market was quite large, with all kinds of products, local, agricultural, industrial. It is impressive the amount of different ethnic groups that gather there from different villages, with varied clothes, faces, hairstyles, handkerchiefs, as if a band were all the same, especially women, with shaved eyebrows … spectacle of cultures, races and customs … how beautiful …

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As a market, we were impressed by the sale of water buffalo. In a field above the market was the area selling animals, but above all water buffalo … but what monkeys are!

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Some 500 kg beasts, with powerful horns, scary and with tender eyes … Well there we had about 100 animals gathered, each with its owner waiting for someone to take an interest in their animal and start bargaining. We ask and an animal costs about 2-3 million Dongs.

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The most spectacular thing is when suddenly you saw people running agitated towards the side of the esplanade, that meant that two of the harmless buffaloes were measuring themselves, with those huge horns … better not to be in the middle … And once regained control people returned to theirs … A beautiful image, an ancient practice, with some animals that we found precious …

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Moving away from the prices for tourists, we ate at a local restaurant, consisting of a rusty wooden table and two benches, serving rice and chicken with sauce, not bad at a very good price. And we continued our trip to Sapa.

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The town of Sapa is basically an agglomeration of hotels, restaurants, works of more macrofanic hotels and North Face article stores … We stayed at the Asiana Sapa Hotel, booked by Booking.com, for 227,000 Dongs ($ 10) per night . Everything very correct, except breakfast, which was not the best …

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Around Sapa there are several villages where different ethnic groups live, such as the Hmong, Dao Do, Tay and Giay. We, by time and recommendation, made an excursion to Lau Chai, 6 km from Sapa.

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People usually hire a tour with a guide, usually from an ethnic group, that takes you between the rice fields. But we do not, as you may have guessed, we are quite grasradetes … so we look for the people in the browser and start the route …

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Following the road we found that there was a check point where we had to pay an entrance … to continue to the next town … there were 100,000 Dongs per head … But just before, a road was diverted to the right … that we try our luck …

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Following this road, we asked the campesinos how to get to Lau Chai, and thus we were finding the way, until we came to a very clear and marked path, that should be the way …

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The path went between the rice fields, cut in the mountains, like steps of a very lively green, with the image of the peasants dressed in the classic outfits of each ethnic group, a beautiful image, all the way …

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Suddenly the road continued inside the dense forest, another beautiful image, in such a varied landscape … Beyond the rice fields, 2 km from the village the road was passable by vehicle, mainly motorcycles carrying immense sacks, harvests, up and down without stopping …

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In the distance you could see groups of children, between 5 and 11 years old with bundles of bracelets, with well-learned history, repeating the same without stopping, without reasoning, with a sad tone, almost bringing it to tears … at times in that something distracted them they continued but attending to the distraction, so that was the signal, we began to imitate their sobs, until the child broke laughing … hehehe … Ui!

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A group of Koreans !!! The group of children considered us impossible and ran out to the next walkers. Once in the town, it was time to get hydrated and eat something, with the price somewhat swollen and surrounded by tourists … The town itself has nothing, or we did not know how to see …

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Another option is to find a Homestay and spend the night at home with local, ethnic people, and learn more about the place and its people. This option is great, only that the prices did not seem fair … more than $ 50 per day both, considering that now we spend less than $ 20 per day both … you have to save …

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We went back to Sapa on the road. Liam and Pepa took a transport, but we wanted to walk again, we wanted to finish what we had started … And the truth is that we were not disappointed …

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The fields were a spectacular landscape, but people are organized from the roads, so we could see people of different ethnicities, carrying heavy loads somewhere, children carrying water buffaloes to their stables, curious shops, and restaurants Mountain limit with incredible views …

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Once in Sapa … we were busted … so shower, dinner, a little walk and to sleep !!!

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The next day we went to Ha Giang, but before we had to find a mechanic to repair the puncture of Liam and Pepa’s scooter, changing the camera for 70,000 Dongs.

And once ready … towards Ha Giang !!! We follow the route through the north Vietnamese!

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Ha Giang loop, beautiful scenery

The road from Sapa to Ha Giang is correct in the first half of the journey, but in the second half … there are 30 km impracticables … my mother! It was all potholes, without rest !!!

A labyrinth of holes, only needed to have a club and that moles were left. It really was exaggerated, it seemed like a detour, but instead of a mule, we had to tame the road.

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Our beloved Vietnamese Dynamite behaved like a champion, it’s all agility, resistance, determination … until we puncture the rear wheel … we had to look for a mechanic … but surprise, it was to turn the head, and look where!! A mechanic!!!! Hahahaha … you can not have more filly …

We entered the farm and the grandfather took out cups and the teapot, so with the calm we were drinking tea while all the men of the house watched as one fixed the puncture, I also changed the bearings of the rear wheel that were already starting to make noises … Finally, the three of us came out victorious from the ride of the hardest 30 km that I’ve ever done on a motorbike … Tired and in pain, we continue to Ha Giang. The rest of the road was in good condition and did not present any problems.

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Once in Ha Giang, we asked for prices in the hostels of the town. The best was Kiki’s Hostel, for 150,000 Dongs ($ 7) both with breakfast in a shared room. Clean and correct. In the evening we went to have dinner in the town, and we tried the Banh Cuon, a few rolls of rice pasta that makes the pasta at the moment as if it were a crepe, and is filled with minced meat and vegetables.

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From Ha Giang, you start the loop that bears the same name, because not only is the name of the town also gives name to the region. In the hostels you can rent a motorbike and take the route. We made the following tour / stops: Ha Giang – Yirn Minh – Meo Vac and from there we continue south towards Ba be lake.

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The landscape along the route is spectacular, probably the most beautiful mountain landscape we have seen … In the first section you start an ascent, until crowning a plain, between thunderstorms, with rays too close for our taste, that is why we climb relatively near a bus that made us to para-rays, just in case …

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At the summit the view was spectacular … Further on, a breathtaking mountain gorge begins, like huge vertical guards, looking like otherworldly beings, reminding us how insignificant we are … accentuated by the ridiculous roar of the Vietnamese Dynamite engine , great friend but little intimidating …

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The throat continues to open a little in Yem Minh. We spent the night at the 27A hostel, 150,000 Dongs for a room with two double beds for ourselves, and breakfast included. That night we enjoyed it in the company of some Israelite travelers and an Alaskeño … We ate, we drank and we laughed together, it was fun.

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In the morning of the route, we came across a small town with a sign in the entrance, we went in and out … it turned out that the little town had been the location of a film about the ethnic groups of the place! In the town we found a place with a lot of people eating, they invited us to share a table … and we accepted with pleasure! A good time with wonderful people!

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The next day we made the next stretch to Meo Vac. On the way there is a point on the road that is meters from the border of China, and you can cross it !!! Well, there is a triple wire fence, and next to it a little path that makes the barbed wire useless … As it was the first stop, we took the opportunity to go to China to piss !!!! Hahahahaha … With the fair respect I have towards China.

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It was exciting to go down a few meters to a road, in China !! hehehe, pretty adventure …

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We continue our way to a point where there is a viewpoint with a huge Vietnam flag. It is said that the flag is so big for them to see it in China. There we also met the group of Israelites and enjoyed tea with them. The truth is that we found many less backpackers doing the motorcycle loop than we expected …

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Finally, the last section to Meo Vac, a road at the edge of the precipice, beautiful, but without any danger … First the black rock, steep, combining with the vegetation, intense green, giving way to a valley, very high, At our feet, the whole majestic mountain, greener, impressive, narrow, observing from the heights.

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A spectacular view, the most beautiful and spectacular stretch of road we have seen to date … A pity that we caught the rain 10 km before arriving, and here when it rains it is not nonsense …

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We arrived and asked at the first hotel, Khach San Meo Vac Hotel, for 180,000 Dongs room. Wet as chickens and cold, we were happy to find a great room.

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The next day we continue to the last stop, Ba Be lake, before returning to Hanoi. The road was very curious. Most of them run on the correct road, like a provincial highway. However, suddenly we were diverted to a secondary road, between villages in the middle of the field, the asphalt was destroyed, we went first (march) and it seemed that we were doing enduro …

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I thought about my colleagues Albert, Sergio, Antonio, Alex, who do enduro, they would have enjoyed it, I did it !!!! Prrrr prrrr prrrr … It was great … And the Vietnamese Dynamite … I still do not understand how it did not split in two … well … Finally, after a long walk, we arrived at the entrance to Ba Be lake, a natural park.

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We were going behind a motorbike that entered directly, and we followed without thinking, then we found out that you have to pay entrance … sorry …

The road surrounds the lake, sporting a dense vegetation that tries to eat the road, very beautiful. Once in the village we had to choose homestay. The one they recommended was full, so we stayed at the one next door, Huynh Ha Homestay … Go for room shit … fullola walls with holes and a mattress on the floor.

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Dinner too, very basic and nothing appetizing. Thanks to having no luck with the homestay and we were tired of so many kilometers in so few days, we decided that the next day we would not stay longer and we would go back to Hanoi … And so we did, we went back to Hanoi, skirting the lake by the way to be able to admire it even if it was only a little …

So we went back to Hanoi to do the scheduled volunteering, with Blue Dragon Foundation and Human Children Service Vietnam (see the Clown Science Dreams blog) and finish our trip to Vietnam …